Community Magazine February 2019

SHEVAT - ADAR I 5779 FEBRUARY 2019 57 that the height is not what’s impressive; rather, it’s the marvel of how, in every direction, water leaps and bounds over ancient rock formations at gushing speeds. Think of it as whitewater rafting, but for the eyes. After an hour driving along the south shore of Lake Llanquihue, with spectacular views of the ice-capped Osorno and Calbuco volcanoes, my group arrived at the El Solitario Hike, a 6-km trail. The thicket of the lush green forest, the clean air and pin-drop silence is a welcome change from the congested insta-world we live in. Wild-growing food is plenty. Chaura berries (think red, tart blueberries), berberis (a fruity yellow bud), maqui (Chilean wineberry), the avelaana (Chilean hazelnut), and nalca (a vegetable that is celery on the outside and rhubarb on the inside) are all edible, and delicious. THE MARKETS OF CHILOE South of Puerto Montt is the island of Chiloe, where you can visit the bustling market in the town of Ancud. Soak in the stunning colors of locally-grown fruits and vegetables, aisle upon aisle of fresh fish, and shop upon shop of handmade clothing. I couldn’t resist buying my wife a combination of woolen sweater, scarf and hat – all of which, I was told, took days to fashion. The price was equal to that of a typical department store, but high on quality (and warmth!). I thought a lot about why the fruits and vegetables had much brighter colors, and juicier tastes, than those in supermarkets. It didn’t take long to realize that much of the market’s fare had to be grown within driving distance, no doubt sown in the nutrient-rich volcanic soil. The comparatively dullish hues of our own fruit are likely caused by the eight months or so of inhospitable growing conditions, requiring our fruit to be shipped thousands of miles, after being plucked weeks early, and to ripen on the truck, and later, in the store. While in the Ancud community, I visited the Dimter Maldonado family in the Chepo region. There, I learned about the “curanto” tradition of cooking food: inside a specially-made wooden hut, firewood is placed atop stones in a pit, the wood is kindled, and when the fire becomes strong enough, the wood is removed. Chicken and beef are placed right on the white-hot stones, and all covered by pine needles. An hour later, the cooking is done and the food is enjoyed by family and guests. Meanwhile, local wool weavers showed a demonstration of dyeing techniques, whereby specific colors are derived from boiling the wools in onion peels, blackberries, indigenous canelo tree leaves, and red wine. It’s said that many of these traditions were handed down from the Huilliche-Mapuche indigenous cultures. The canelo leaves are also used for tea, of which I partook. It has a cinnamon, woodsy flavor, and is said to aid in digestion, boost the immune system, and ease body aches. If you’re into what nature has to offer, take a trek through Tantauco Park, an unspoiled evergreen forest that offers fabulous opportunities to spot birds and wildlife. Our group ran into the indigenous Zorro fox. As small as a housecat, the brown furry fella wandered around our camp, sniffing our picnic. It is harmless, relatively, but things would have gotten snippy had we not packed up and walked away. Chilemay be an unknown gem for most North American tourists, but it really ought to be a “bucket list” destination for anyone looking to enjoy a cultural cornucopia and a treat for the senses that cannot be found anywhere else. PLACES TO STAY In Santiago’s Plaza Mulato Gil de Castro is the 70-room Cumbres, what an upscale traveler seeks in the heart of the city to enjoy a fine hotel experience. It’s also next door to an outdoor market, where locals peddle their handmade wares. TierraChiloeisaluxury24-roomhotel in San Jose Playa, Castro, where each room contains hand-crafted furniture, wall-to-wall wood paneling, and jaw-dropping views of the coastline and clifftops. Deluxe accommodations can be found at Awa in Puerto Varas, built by renowned architect (and owner) Mauricio Fuentes in 2016. The hotel is filled with local materials such as volcanic rock, cypress wood and flagstone, and the spacious décor molds modernity with traditional crafts throughout. Nearby options for excursions include fishing, hiking, kayaking, rafting, and cultural activities with local indigenous groups. Each room has a gob-smacking view of the hotel’s private beach, and of the Osorno Volcano. Puerto Montt – with the Osorno Volcano in the background. The city of Ancud - the entryway to the island of Chiloé. Hotel Awa in Puerto Varas. Valparaíso