Community Magazine March 2014

Getting with the Times “Out with the old, in with the new” is an oft-repeated adage that depicts the gradual process of modernization, and the preference for newfangled traditions over those of the past. Has this happened to our cherished culinary tradition? Is the “modernization bug” threatening our long-established fare? “I would say that overall, the Syrian Jews have started to cook food that is not traditionally Syrian, but uses Syrian/Middle Eastern spices for flavor such as cumin, cinnamon, and allspice,” says Jennifer. “Also, in general, our generation is much more health-conscious than our grandparents and great-grandparents had been, so we have cut out a lot of the meat except for special occasions, and make dishes lower in fat, or more vegetarian options. My mother makes a kusa b’jibbin using low fat cheeses and egg whites, which is much lighter and still tastes great, topped with a low fat yogurt for the lebneh .” Poopa agrees that we have become more health conscious in certain ways, but adds that our traditional fare is healthy to begin with. “We have modernized our food by using less sugar, and a lot of people are replacing natural butter with a healthier substitute, but my point of view is that Syrian food has always been authentically healthy. We have always cooked with vegetables, grains and pure olive oil. The same food that was made hundreds of years ago is still the same healthy food that we are eating now. It isn’t that we modernized the food, but that we now realize and appreciate how ahead of the time our food really is.” Fine Dining If the way to a man’s heart is through his stomach, then surely the way to a woman’s heart is through her eyes. “To Syrians in general, especially from Halab, how the food was served is just as important as how it tastes,” explains Jennifer. “It should be as attractive to the eye as it is to the stomach, and there should always be a variety of dishes served with different colors, textures, and flavors. Syria was one of the most sophisticated lands in the Middle Eastern world, and was influenced by the greater Ottoman Empire, where the Sultans took great pride in having the best of foods by the best of cooks.” Poopa concurs, and further elucidates the pride of the Syrian women. “Halab was known as the queen of the mechshis ! If you were to ask the Middle Eastern countries where the best food comes from, they would unequivocally answer Halab! Halab was the gem of the Ottoman Empire.” Why were the highest culinary standards found specifically in Halab? Poopa explains that geographically, Aleppo was situated in the heart of the Middle East, and its residents thus had access to all the market’s spices and the caravans selling their exotic wares. Furthermore,Aleppo was part of the Fertile Crescent and was a wealthy, sophisticated commercial center. The Sultans of the Ottoman Empire would thus hire the top chefs fromAleppo to cook for them. Poopa points out that particularly on Shabbat and holidays, Jewish women took special pride not only in the taste and quality of the food, but also in the serving and dining. “We understood the significance and elevation of the holidays and Shabbat,” she says. “We appreciated this elevation and served the meals much nicer!” The Etymology The name sambusak originates from the Indian food samosa, a fried or baked pastry with a flavorful filling. Interestingly, sambusak has been enjoyed for over 1,000 years in the Middle East. The following poem was recorded in 947 A.D. in a historical work entitled Meadows of Gold , by Mas’udi, one of the first Arab historians. The poem’s focus? Sambusak! “…And when the burning flames have dried it quite, Then, as thou wilt, in pastry wrap it round, And fasten well the edges, firm and sound; Or, if it please thee better, take some dough, Conveniently soft, and rubbed just so, Then with a rolling-pin let it be spread And with the nails its edges docketed. Pour in the frying-pan the choicest oil And in that liquor let it finely broil…” ( Meadows of Gold , translated to English by Arthur John Arberry, Aspects of Islamic Civilization – 1939) Here is the fascinating etymology of the names of some other common Syrian foods, translated from their Arabic names: Lehembagene – “meat on the dough.” Kibbeh – “ball,” referring to the mazza’s oblong shape. Kanafe –“shreddeddough,”referringtothepastry’stextureandappearance. Kaak – “cookie.” Ma’amoul – “filled.” A nut filled cookie, this is the anticipated dessert served on Purim. A similar cookie, called karabij , is topped with marshmallow fluff, and is also a made as a Purim delicacy. Renaissance and Rebirth “The previous generation took tremendous pride in preparing Syrian cuisine, and everything was made from scratch,” says Poopa. “Then, for a few decades, Syrian women turned to an easier form of Syrian cooking.” Among all the generations of Syrian women who worked tirelessly making their own dough, filling their own kibbe hamda and such, there were only a small handful of women who opted for ease. “Now I see a resurgence of preserving and getting back to the basis of our traditional cooking and the pride in serving,” Poopa enthuses. “People excitedly tell me that they had just made kaak and kibbeh . This is one of the reasons why I wrote Aromas of Aleppo – because I didn’t want to lose that excitement and pride. And I knew that through a greater understanding of our culture and traditions, there would be a returning to the roots, and, baruch Hashem , that happened!” Jennifer opines that many Syrian women are working these days and don’t have time to cook as their mothers did. “But all Syrian women appreciate when Syrian food tastes good and is well prepared,” she says. “Especially during the holidays, Syrian women cook and serve more elaborate dishes.” Families are going back to the basics and finding the joys of Syrian cuisine that was so much a part of their ancestors’ lives. “We’ve always cooked,” declares Poopa. “it’s the trend that never ends!” Mrs. Poopa Dweck can be contacted through her website www.poopadweck. com or via email poopa@poopadweck.com . She will be preparing circle K kosher products for Passover. Mrs. Jennifer Abadi can be contacted through her website www.fistfuloflentils. com. Some of the historical information provided in this article is derived from Jennifer’s cookbook “Fistful of Lentils.” 54 COMMUNITY MAGAZINE