Community Magazine February 2003

48 COMMUNITY MAGAZINE What’s Eating You? R istorante Italiano? The new Bertolini's restaurant is too sophisticated, and too good for such a limiting description. Behind the classic brick façade and ornate mahogany window frames and front door lies a treasure trove of tastes, textures and flavor. With splendid granite floors, a clever mixture of gentle direct and indirect lighting with ever so subtle neon accents, Bertolini's creates a stylish atmosphere softened by creature com- forts. The well appointed sushi bar is smartly set in front of an exciting raised mirror outline of the New York skyline, fully illu- minated with hundreds of brilliant lights. Tables, topped with white runners and accented by mauve tablecloths with white cot- ton napkins, are adorned with a dainty blue or yellow shaded can- dle lamp reminiscent of Italy's glory days. To properly orient your taste buds, sample the thin crust triangu- lar garlic bread, tainted with bits of green olive that easily wins favor as a light, soft treat alluding to the experience ahead. The "Insalata Di Caesar", a traditional Caesar salad with lettuce, capers, Parmesan cheese and croutons, while not particularly innovative, is certainly worth ordering for its consistently delicious results. The Japanese are allied again with the Italians as Sushi contin- ues to pervade even the most authentic Italian eateries. Luckily the alliance proves constructive as the "spicy tuna roll" hit the mark for freshness, flavor, consistency, and presentation. Among hot dishes, the "Ravioli Funghi", features a large soft pasta shell filled with fresh mushrooms and bathed in a zesty authentic Italian tomato sauce. The "Pizza Margherita" with moz- zarella, tomatoes and basil was a distant second to the flavorsome "Pizza Bianca", a mild, creamy blend of fresh spinach, garlic, mozzarella and, ricotta cheese. The ultra thin crust makes an entire pie manageable for one with room left over for desert. The special of the day, a succulent Chilean Sea Bass basking in an aromatic secret sauce, without a hint of fishiness, proved an uncommonly savory dish. Without a doubt, however, dessert reigns supreme at Bertolini's. A heady "tiramisu" truly ranks among the best, but it is the "hot chocolate" cake that invokes the sensations of sinful pleasure for the palate. A smooth rich chocolate sauce heated to perfection is hidden beneath a moist layer of light chocolate cake, delighting the senses and satisfying even the most fanatic of chocolate lovers. The wait staff is exceptionally friendly, dressed to the nines in finely appointed black tuxedos. But as may be expected from a new establishment, the service may be spotty. Ravings: Like most nice restaurants, some of the staffers are on top of their game and others need a little more time on the job to effi- ciently juggle the multi-tasking. Truly though, that may be nitpicking, as the food more than makes up for any bumps in the service and on the whole, the experience is overwhelmingly positive. Cravings: Whether it's salad, pasta, pizza or fish, diners will invariably find something to gratify their hunger and thrill their sens- es, not to mention the desserts that are, in a word, delightfulini. CM Location: 1969 Coney Island Ave Hours: Sunday-Thursday 12 p.m.-11:30 pm Saturday 1 hr after Shabbat 12:30 am Cuisine: Classic Italian w/contemporary updates Parking: Valet parking during peak times Kashrut: Rabbi Yisroel Gornish cravings of a food critic Delightfulini